Bearfootin'

From Memphis we started to fly. We were up every morning before the sun and shoving off around 5 on a consistent basis. The days were long and the nights were hot. Sleeping in a tent was a necessity due to the mosquitoes but that also meant little ventilation and very uncomfortable sleeping. Dad came back strong due in part to the steroids he is currently on. The days dragged by with brutal heat and sun during the day and little current. Despite all this we started amping up our mileages and were touching 70 miles on a regular basis. Our longest day was the day before Baton Rouge, we paddled for 19 hours straight to end the day at 1145pm and with 95miles done. In Baton Rouge we met with Jake. Jake is with the Coast Guard and had done this trip in 2010. He was a great resource and gave us all the warnings, tips and tricks. Baton Rouge was our first port city and where we met our first ocean liners. These mamouth vessels dwarf us by thousands of tons and throw off 5ft rolling wake. Needless to say our time with the big ships was stressful but also rewarding at the same time. Several close calls later and we were nearing the end of the trip. We had passed through New Orleans without stopping as we decided that it would be better to come back to after we had finished. Our last day was a long 75 mile day. We could no longer start out before sunrise due to fear of the big ships so all of the last day was a push to Venice LA. Venice is at mile 10 so not technically the true end of the Mississippi River, however it is the end of the road as there is no motor traffic further south and to continue on would have meant risk being washed out to sea. We all decided that Venice would be a fine place to stop. Dad and I were second to make it in, well after dark we rounded the corner into “the Jump” (the channel that led to the Venice Marina) soon after we were almost swamped by several big shrimp boats and at that moment we decided that we were done. We pulled the canoe up onto land and got a ride to the marina to meet Cliff and Alex. It was around 10pm and Jeff was still many hours behind us. Even with our urging for him to stop he pushed and got in around 2am. That morning brought in a torrential downpour of rain and we were ready and rearing to get out as soon as we could. We were able to get a ride with Jeff and canoe and all made it to New Orleans on Friday afternoon. It was so nice to have a shower and clean clothes. Friday was also the first day in 2 months that I didn’t paddle. That had not dawned on me until I got off the water that we had not one single day of rest the entire trip. New Orleans is a great way to top off the trip and it has been a true pleasure to share this with my father. 

I look foward to being home soon and sharing my experences with anyone who will lend an ear.  

After a 5am start we pulled into Mud Island Marina around 1:30. The heat during the day has become overwhelming and early starts allow us to paddle during the cooler hours of the morning. The Marina allows all motorless boats to stay for free which is great for us in such a big city. After getting to the hotel for a shower, we hit the town to find some of the amazing BBQ that Memphis is known for. Rightfully so, as our experience was top notch and the food even better. For the past week or so I have been traveling in a flotilla of paddlers, 6 of us total.  There is Cliff and Alex still going strong and Jeff and his son Derek also headed for the gulf. Rolling together has been such a blast and we have plans to stay together until the end. Today is Jason’s last day. The river is not as kind to some and after battling bad sunburn he decided that he needed to get off early. In his place my father will be joining me for the rest of the trip to see me through to the end. He will fit in well, even though this is a much different river than when he left it. The plan is to be finished in 10 days from now…

We are staying in a hotel room which we are splitting, and we’ll be watching today’s fireworks from our balcony.  ADDITIONAL JOURNAL POSTED BELOW»>

6/25    Additional Journal posted below…

I write from Fort Madison Public Library. We are currently stuck here on account of nasty head-winds blowing 15 to 25 right out of the southwest. The waves today might be the worst we have seen this side of Winnibigoshish. 4 foot white caps caught us off guard and threatened several times to send us for a swim.  We fought hard for a long time and for a while it was a lot of fun. It was a tough call but for safety reasons we will not be going back out on the river until everything is calm again. We are so close to Missouri and that is eating away at us but we will hold fast. As Tom said “burial at sea on the Mississippi river is not an option”.  Jason has taken all of this in stride. He is a real trooper and a top notch paddling buddy.

The plan is to be make it to St. Louis by Sunday, but if the weather keeps up that might be unattainable.

peAce

TR 

Yesterday we canoed 50 miles, met with the Okee Dokee Brothers and stayed at the Purple Cow.

6/27

We made it to Grafton, IL.  we found out that some of the locks going through the city of St. Louis were closed.  We found a company called Grafton Canoe Co. and they got us around the closed locks back into the water just south of the Arch.  When we made it to Crystal City, we stayed at the old clubhouse at the Crystal City Boat Club.  There we met the Commodore who fed us, took us grocery shopping.  He had an awesome handlebar moustache!  On this night it rained so hard that our tent was blown over and 7 inches of rain filled our boat.  This storm was beyond anything I have ever experienced. 

When we were outside Hannibal, MO we experienced some unusual weather.  The skies were an eerie green, there was dense fog, and the rain fell sideways.  Also while we were in Clarksville, MO, the storms there produced lightening that looked like strobe lights!

6/28

We canoed 70 miles today to Grand Tower.  We met up with Jeff and his 10 year old son, Derek.  We are experiencing a different wider river. Along with the changes there are also barges and swirling boils and eddies to contend with.  Eddies can be dangerous and can suck the canoe under water a few inches.  This section of the river is giving us different challenges.  Tonight we camped on top of a levee.

6/29

Today our goal was to reach the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers.  We camped at a state park on an observation deck.  We were able to see 3 states from the deck.  Lewis and Clark camped at this area…  

6/30

Once we arrived at the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, the current slowed quite noticably.  We arrived in New Madrid, and met the Walls Family, (Cliff’s parents) and we got to take showers in a hotel!  Thanks Walls Family!  The following morning, we picked up our packages from home and continued on.

7/3  on to Memphis

6/20/11

Jason, Mom and Dad arrived in Muskatine early this morning.  They met Tom and thanked him for taking care of me.  We went to a local restaurant for breakfast and back to the riverfront and loaded the canoe with our gear.  I now have 6 gallons of Lake Forest water as ballasts.

Jason and I began this leg of the journey with the wind at our back, swift currents and a sunny day.  He’s gonna have a good time!

(Note from Mom)

Thank You Tom!

We went to American Pickers!

6/19/11

Today I ate at the Clamshell Diner.  It is a small 40’s style diner right on the riverfront in Muscatine IA.  The food was wonderful, plentiful and I ate well for under $10.

I enjoyed talking with the owner, Tom.  He offered for me to stay at his home.  I was able to shower, clean my clothing and recharge my electronics.  I also got a tour of Muskatine in an old Ford Model T .  Tom lives on a farm in Muskatine and has horses.  We stayed up late and talked about everything and anything.  I am appreciative if his friendship and generosity.  He will hopefully be following my blog.

6/17/11

Cliff, Alex and I ported in a small town, Le Claire IA, and found a pizza joint called Happy Joes.  Pizza buffet-all you can eat!  While there, people told us that the History Channel’s American Pickers had their antique shop located there.  I called Mom and got her envious, and paid a visit to their shop.  The guys weren’t at the shop, though. You can see things there that they bought while filming their episodes.  There are pictures of our visit on Cliff and Alex’s Facebook River Rats album.

This evening I got the best news.  Jason Gunning will be canoeing with me.  He will be arriving on Monday 6/20.  This is great news and I’m looking forward to this. 

6/16/11

Presently we are in Beulah, just north of Clinton, IA.  We made it through Pool 13. If I don’t find a paddlin’ buddy, I’ll have to go ultralight backpacking/kayaking.  Folks are working out the logistics for any changes I may need.  JP will be gone tomorrow, and I will plan a solo day until I hear any news.

6/16/11 P.M.

We are just south of the Quad Cities near Buffalo IA.Still working out the logistics.

6/15/11

We are finding that it is fairly easy to get through the locks.  You simply canoe up to the bell rope, ring the bell and the lockmaster does the work.  We did have to wait for barges who have the right-of-way.  That took about 1 1/2 hours.  We will be in Davenport IA in a few days, and JP will be leaving our adventure.  So I’ve sent out the word for another paddlin’ buddy, or rig the boat to go solo. 

This part of the river is scenic.  We are having 40-50 degree days.  One of my paddles broke, but will be replaced.  Cliff and Alex are still with me, but will have to move on.  I know that I will see them soon.  Going solo throws a new challenge into the trip.  This river is dangerous and is not to be taken lightly…

I am enjoying the towns and the culture in each of them.  I meet so many great people!  Staying in an ACOE campsite tonight. The bugs are bad.

Tomorrow we will be crossing a large lake (will take 5 hours to go 8 miles) We will be past Clinton, IA then.

6/14/11

We are in East Dubuque, Iowa  We did 45 miles today and 50 miles yesterday. J.P. sure got his river baptism.  We continue to have strong winds. 

We were fortunate to meet with fellow Lake Foresters the Trausch family.  They have a home on the Mississippi River, and welcomed us.  It was good to spend time with them.

Tomorrow, we will have an easy day. 

When we were in Winona, MN, we called Winona Canoe Co.  They put a post on Facebook and we met a guy named Josh, who spent time with us and shared stories-as he canoed the river in 2008.  We also met Emmy O’ Leary who also hiked the AT and knows the Foster family.  Lake Forest IS the center of the universe!

At one of our campsites, we met a bluegrass band, The Okie Dokie Brothers who were recording a documentary film.  We shared stories and songs around the campfire. 

Kandu Canoe… made for two…

One of the brothers went to Lake Forest college!